Week 14 Two more decks and some bits of card.

The bits we received

And what we did with them

First of all, I went back to the parts we received in week 6.  You can see the first deck going on in the photo above.  Notice that it is held on with pins and tape.  The pins are going into the frames and pressing down on the deck.  The pins haven't gone into the deck at all, partly because the deck wood is quite hard, but mainly because the pins would split the deck.  Note the use of masking tape.  Sticks well enough to hold the deck in place, but comes off easily without doing any damage or leaving any glue behind.

Here we see the forward decks in place along with some of the bits of card.  You'll note that I haven't fixed the 2 bulkheads that run behind card parts S3 & S4 yet.  I ran into a problem with the card/bulkheads underneath the forward most deck.  See card parts S1 & S2.  When I stuck down the bits of card just underneath the forward most deck, I didn't think about checking that they were the correct size.  Unfortunately either the card is too big, or the forward deck is too short, by just less than a millimeter, as the 2 bits of bulkhead weren't fully covered by the deck.  The photo below shows what I mean.

I've actually moved the deck forward a little to make it stand out on the photo.  This made me pause for thought.  I did consider cutting off the bulkheads and re-fixing them in the proper place, but decided that this would probably damage the deck.  I finally decided to cut a thin slither of wood off the faces of the bulkheads with a razor saw.  This turned out to be easier than I expected and was successful. 

Here you can see where I've finished one side.  The razor saw is deliberately in the photo and they are readily available from good model shops.  A quick tip,  You'll probably need to finish off with sandpaper or an emery board.  Put a piece of masking tape on the deck to protect it.

Moving on the this weeks parts, this is what the stern of the model looks like.

No problem with the card size this time.  You will note that the deck is a little shorter than the gap between the frames.  It needs to be so that you can slide it in place.  It doesn't matter about the gap as this will be at the forward end and covered by card and eventually hidden from view.  The photo below shows what I mean. 

 

You'll also note that the deck is a tad wider than the frame.  This can be sanded down later.

Hot tip of the week

This weeks tip focuses on how to sand down the edges of the frames so the planking will  fit nicely.  You will see more or less what needs to be done if you hold a thin strip of wood against the bow or stern frames.  Notice how it is only touching at one corner of the frame.  Not good - you won't get the correct shape to the hull, and you wont get a strong join between the frame and planks.  What you need to do is sand down the front or rear edges of the frame so that the planks sit nice and flat.  See the next picture to see what I mean.

All you need to do is get some nice course sandpaper and a sanding block, and sand away.  Use a thin flexible piece of wood to see how you are doing.  I found that the first frame took quite a lot of work and that the stern needed a lot of attention as well.  As you move away from the bow or stern then the frames need less and less work.  You don't need to touch the frames in the middle where the sides of ship are flat.  You can just see that the bow now comes to a point.  The planks are 1mm thick, and there will be a 2mm strip to go down the front of the bow.  Hence, if you leave any thickness of the keel at the front, then it will be too wide to be covered by the strip.

Here are some pictures to show you what mine looks like when it's finished.

Sorry the photo's are a little out of focus.  The last picture shows what happens at the stern, which isn't clear from the instructions, and wasn't very clear from last weeks page.  This took me a couple of evenings (about 4 hours) to complete.  It's quite time consuming, although it's not difficult.

How many hours does it take to build the model ??

This week :

60 mins

Running total :

11 h 40 mins

Take me to week 15