Week 85 This week, yet more hand rails
The bits we received
And what we did with them
I removed the bow grating and then sprayed the fret white.
I glued the bow grating to the end of a scrap of wood with a tiny spot of super glue (and I mean really tiny) and then sprayed it black. Don't forget a grey primer first.
I put a bit of Blu-tac on the end of a match to hold it. This made it easy to apply the super glue and place it in position. Hold it for a few seconds then gently pull the match away. Note that the inside of the beading round the deck is not painted. This is so that you get a good surface to glue to for the hand rails.
Here is the rail for the front of the engine casing. The instructions said to glue the whole rail along the front of the casing. To me this would just look silly. I'm sure Harland & Wolf wouldn't waste time and materials fitting a handrail in this manner, so I cut the part as per the photo below, and glued it in place as shown above. Note that I haven't done any research as to whether it is correct or not, but it looks much better to me. You can also see one of the other rails fitted to the deck. Note the position in relation to the ladder.
Refer to week 86 for notes about cutting the hand rails.
Now I've got parts 76 & 78 I can complete the long rails from week 83.
Fit this part first as it makes it much easier to mark the length of the long rail.
Hold the rail in place and mark it with a pencil. Then cut the end off as shown. Refer to week 86 for notes about cutting the hand rails.
Finally glue it in place with super glue. You can see that there is a shorter gap between uprights at the aft (right) end of the rail, but I don't think you would ever notice this if you didn't know it was there.
The rails on this deck house were all striaght forward. The curved rail was just rolled round the end of a pencil to bend it. There were a couple of places where the rails were only just too long. Probably less than 0.5mm. This is easy to fix when it happens on an inside corner. Either sand the corner back a tad, or file the bottom of the end of the rail. This will allow the upright to sit futher in, just on top of the deck. The slight error here is much less noticable than an overhanging rail would be.
In the magazine this little rail is shown as being glued against the bulkheads. (Photos 13-14). I didn't like this, so I simply cut off 2 sections instead of 1 and glued them in place against the corner of the bulkhead. It looks as if I haven't got the rail quite upright in the photo. In reality it is very slightly off, but the photo, being larger than life and at an angle, makes it look worse than it is.
Here is the rail before and after cutting.
A list of weeks which haven't been completed yet.
56 - Trunking to fix
61 - 2 benches to fit after to railing have been fitted
63 - Haven't done anything to the lifeboats yet
69 - A couple of the winches still to fit
72 - Still got to fit the lifeboat davit arms to the bases
73 - Cranes to assemble
75 - Fit lookout tower and anchors
77 - Navigation lights and 2 vents to fit
80 - Four vents to fit
81 - Three vents to fit
82 - Crane platforms to fit to the cranes
83 - Rails 85, 71 & 72 : 71 & 72 done now
84 - Rails Rails for forecastle, poop deck & docking bridge
Hot tip of the week
Be careful with your model now - the hand rails are very easy to bend. Fortunately a small bend is easy to straighten.
How many hours does it take to build the model ??
This week :
Running total :