This page is where I'm going to publish items which will help you get the details correct. Typically it will be things not covered by the magazine, or are causing confusion. Most of these will come from other people as there are many out there far more knowledgeable about the Titanic than I am. I'm a modeler, not a historian. However, I will only publish items that I am reasonably confident are correct. Of course, I'm not going to guarantee that everything is correct, you use the information at your own risk.
This is the fret that I've produced. You get a full set of lifeboat covers, a full set of ladders with quite a few spares, Some doors for the crane pedestals, and some hatch covers. These are the bits that I needed that Fred hadn't covered.
The ladders come flat (obviously) and need folding to produce what you see in the photo. Simply take a ladder and fold the sides down. The top step needs to be folder over to rest on the deck. To do this, hold a Stanley knife blade at the point where you want to fold the parts, and then fold the metal over the blade of the knife. Mind you fingers - Knife blades are sharp, so be very careful to keep your fingers clear of the blade. When the top is bent to your satisfaction, simply push the rest of the treads with the tip of a pointed knife blade or needle and they will bent level very easily.
If you find that a ladders too long, and the next size ladder is too short, you can shorten a ladder. Simply cut off a short length from the bottom of the ladder with a sharp, heavy duty knife. Make sure you press on something hard, otherwise you will bend the ladder. Later in the series you will be given some brass etched handrails to fit these ladders. Provisionally, I suggest that you fit these handrails before gluing or painting the ladders. The hand rails should be glued to the sides of the ladders. Then you can paint the handrails & ladder sides white, and the treads wood brown. Finally glue them in place. The handrails will give you a good guide to getting the angle correct. Please note, that I haven't actually tried this yet. I reckon it's the best way, but I could be wrong. I'll make an update after I've tried it out.
Small ladders Have a look at week 88 to see how I have handled the smallest ladders.
This is the lifeboat cover. Bend the cover along the centre line over the edge of a steel rule. You want a sharp bend, but not a crease. Try to simulate the canvas being thrown over a rope. Then put it on the lifeboat and adjust the bend to fit. Finally, bend the ropes down. Paint the boat white, the cover off white (canvas colour ?) and finally paint the ropes with a light brown. I'm going to give them just enough contrast to make them stand out. Again, I'll update this instruction once I've completed the lifeboats.
Here are the odd bits from my set. The doors for the crane pedestals and a couple of hatch covers. The doors are bent by rubbing the back with a rounded object of some sort - I used a scalpel handle (watch the sharp end though !!) A pair of pliers tweaked the curve to match the part exactly, and then they were super-glued in place. The hatch cover for the fore deck is super-glued onto the base. However, I needed to make a new base from some scrape wood. The Hachette part was just too small. These parts will be painted soon and glued in place.
A note about painting - You should use a primer on the brass before painting them. I use Halfords white spray primer which seems to work very well.
You can get these etchings from Fred. Have a look at his web site "This is not a Scale" or send him an Email.
NOTE : I've just found out that Fred's etching for part C3 appears to be the wrong way round. To get the ladder on the port side you'll have to fit it backwards. Thanks to Richard and Alan for spotting this.
Further to the above note - Fred has advised that the part is correct, and the portholes are suppose to be flush rather than proud.
I've got my set of etchings and started using a few of them. The quality is very very good, and the results are excellent. Well worth the expense and effort. Here are comparative photos of Hachette's printed card decorations, which aren't bad by any means, and Fred's etching.
I think that the etched part looks much better. The card parts also provide a good result (in my opinion - some people have criticized them) and they are quick and easy to use. The etched brass parts are quite expensive, are more difficult to fit, and take longer. For the inexperienced or not so confident modeler the card parts are probably the best option. I'll let you decide which you prefer.
How to Prepare the Etched Parts supplied by Fred
This photo shows a fret as it comes. You can see that there are slots in the bulkheads where they need to be bent. Fred's recommendation is to fill them with 'lead.' I assume that he means solder. Unfortunately the gap is a bit too wide to be filled easily. I've come up with 2 possible solutions. The first is to push the two bulkhead together with a couple of pairs of pliers (must have smooth jaws or you'll damage the etching), then fill with solder and file off the little tabs that will stick out top and bottom. The disadvantage with this is that it makes the bulkhead a little shorter. This may actually be an advantage if it looks like the bulkhead is gong to be a little too long. The second solution is to back up the fold with a short piece of copper wire. I used the core out of a bit of old lighting cable. It should be a solid core, not stranded. Stranded copper won't work as well. If you haven't got any lurking in the depths of your garage, it's quite cheap to buy a meter of the lightest 'twin & earth' cable you can find in your local DIY store. The photos below show an end-on view to show what I mean, and an internal view of the etching to show the soldered joints.
Please note that you can only use this technique on the inside of a corner. You will have to use the first method if the corner bends the other way.
Once you've finished soldering (please be careful not to burn your fingers - it hurts) you will need to clean up the outside of the joints with a needle file. The finished etch should look something like the photo below.
Extra Note : Now that I've had a bit more practice, I've found that you can fill the joints without pushing them together or using backing wire. For internal joints (I.e. a normal outside corner, or the inner joints in the photo) it is easier to use the backing wire, but it's not essential. For the other joints (I.e. Where the corner is pointing inside the deckhouse, or the outer joints in the photo) it is easier to fill the corner it is standing vertical rather than laying flat. Try the piece in position first and see whether it needs to be made smaller to fit. If so, then push the bulkheads together.
A quick word about solder and soldering irons. Use a smallish iron, say 20 to 30 Watts. Too small and you won't get the parts hot enough, too big and it becomes clumsy. Use a flux cored solder, and make sure the parts stay clean and grease free. Apply the iron to the brass etching, then apply the solder to the brass next to the iron, not the iron itself. If the part is hot enough the solder will flow freely and make a good join. Tin the copper wire before soldering it to the brass etching. You should have a basic knowledge of soldering before you try to use the etchings. If you haven't used a soldering iron before, then I would recommend that you buy a cheap electronic kit from a Hobby Electronic suppliers. Maplin Electronics do a wide variety of cheap kits ( £5 upwards). This will give you a bit of practice with the iron before you risk working on your etchings. Better to screw up a £5 kit than screw up an expensive set of etchings.
Now that the etchings are prepared, you will probably need to reduce the height to get them to fit. Especially if, like me, your have already applied card parts and decks on top of them. I have cut out most of the card parts using a very sharp knife. I used a fresh Swan Morton Scalpel. Mind your fingers - these things are designed for cutting flesh and they do it very easily. Once the card parts are out of the way, file the etching very gently until it fits neatly. The etchings are very delicate, and very easy to bend if the file snags, so take your time and go careful. Fortunately they are quite easy to straighten when the do bend. Yes, that is the voice of experience speaking. As my grandfather used to say, "Do as I say, not as I do."
This is quite a time consuming job, so be prepared to spend a few evenings on it. Once the etchings are prepared and filed down so they fit, it's time to paint them.
Painting the etchings. The first job is to thoroughly clean and degrease the parts. Use a solvent such as white spirit and a paint brush or old tooth brush, working carefully as the etchings are rather delicate. You can make life a little easier for yourself by using some masking fluid to mask the window frames now. Try to handle the parts only by their edges to avoid getting grease from your fingers on them. The part must be primed now. The best thing to use is a self etching primer, but this is quite difficult to obtain and some of these special paints need careful handling. For a static model that won't get much handling a normal primer is probably OK. I used a white car primer from Halfords.
Follow the instructions on the can, especially the one about the correct distance to spray from. One of the most common mistakes people make is to hold the can too close. This puts too much paint on too quickly and you get a poor finish. Let the primer dry for at least 24 hours.
Then I use Halfords Appliance White spray as a top coat. This gave a clean white finish, but it didn't get a high gloss finish. It came out at somewhere between a gloss and satin finish which looks OK to me. I think that a high gloss finish doesn't look right, but a matt finish doesn't either.
This is the painted part. The next job is to scrape the paint to expose the brass window frames. I used a very sharp scalpel and it took ages. It's a tedious job that can't be rushed.
This picture shows the frames after they have been scraped clean. Unfortunately they don't show up very well in this photo.
Preparations to the model. It won't take a rocket scientist to work out the the parts wont fit on the model now that we have put pieces of wire in the corners. All you need to do is trim off the corners where they are getting in the way of the soldered joints.
You can see where the offending corners have been removed.
There is one more job we need to do to the bulkheads. Paint them black.
I actually used a black marker pen and have only done half of this bulkhead. Are you wondering why I need to do this ?
It should be clear now. The black gives a nice contrast and shows off the window frames.
The etchings are finally glued in place using Super-glue. I used a high viscosity glue which has the advantage of not dripping off the parts and not setting too quickly until the parts are pressed together.
Here are some more pictures of the parts in place. These are the parts on C deck which are painted in 2 colours.
For some strange reason, Fred didn't include the recessed bulkheads that go under the poop deck. I left the card in place and just painted the lower half of the bulkheads red/brown. I masked the deck, but couldn't mask the upper half of the bulkhead so that line has been painted freehand. That explains why the line is not as sharp as it could be. It's quite difficult to see (and photograph !) so I'm not too bothered about it. I believe that the red/brown is more correct than the gold colour that the card decorations are printed with.
NB. If anybody has any questions about the above, please feel free to drop me an Email. I'll answer all the questions either personally, or by additions to this section.
Alan Fidler is using fibre optics and LED's to light his model. He is writing some instructions which I will copy here.
Disclaimer Please note that neither Alan nor myself can accept any responsibility or liability for any damage you do to your own model caused by trying to install lighting. You follow these instructions entirely at your own risk.
Using a combination of Fibre optics and White Nichia Leds it is possible to light approx 98% of the 250 Scale Titanic Hull.
The following tools will be required:-
1. 2mm, 3mm, 4mm & 5mm Long Shank Drill Bits
2. 18 Gauge Tin Copper Wire
3. Soldering Iron & Solder
Ideally, all the cabin walls on "A" deck will need to be in place before proceeding.
The decks have a tendency to split when drilling holes so it is essential to start with the smallest bit first and work up
to the 5mm hole size in 1mm steps. This will minimise any splitting.
A 12V positive and negative rail will be required to provide a supply to the Leds. The rails are formed using two lengths of
tin copper wire running the full length of "A" deck within the boundary of the cabin walls.
Drill 2 off 2mm holes in each bulk head (port to starboard) as shown on the attached photo. The tin copper wire must be fed through
the holes in the bulk heads as shown.
Drill a series of holes through "A" Deck as shown on the photograph. The holes positioned directly beneath the bridge will need to be
drilled at an acute angle as indicated by the line on Photo 2 so that lighting and wiring cab be run into the area of the hull directly
beneath "C" deck.
Continue drilling holes as shown on the photo 3a, 3b & 3C depending upon how much lighting you want, you should end up with approximately 50 holes spread across the entire length and width of Deck "A" within the cabin wall boundary as indicated above. I have used more lighting on the starboard side since this will be the side from which the model will be viewed in a display case (yet to be built).
One of the principal reasons for using Leds instead of small filament lamps is access. With the boat deck in place, it would be impossible to retrofit any bulb that fails. Leds have a much longer life and produce a very nice blue white light, similar to a fluorescent tube. Photo 4 shows a section of the model as it looks in a dark environment when lit using White Nichia Leds.
Just imagine how good it will look when every window and porthole is similarly illuminated?
Photo 5 is a close up showing the connections to an led. Your next task is to fit an led though each hole and connect them using wire and resistors. Each led must have a separate series resistor connected from the positive tin copper rail (fitted previously) to the led anode (+). The cathode (-) side of the led can be connected directly (if long enough) or via wire to the negative rail. It is VITAL that nothing connected to the positive rail makes contact with anything connected to and including, the negative rail and visa versa. You can just see where the resistor connected to the led at bottom of the photo goes underneath the rail on the left hand side.
Two ways to identify the led polarity:
1. The cathode of most Leds is identified by the shortest lead length.
2. If you look at the metal elements within the body of the led, you will notice that one half looks rather like a flag, this is the cathode or negative end of the led. This is useful if you have cut the led leads and cannot identify the connections using method 1.
As shown on photo 3c, solder a positive and negative wire (0.25mm) to
the tin copper rails as shown. I have used red for Positive and white
for negative, simply because I did not have any black cable which is
the preferred colour.
By now, most of the portholes and windows from "E" Deck to
"B" Deck should now be illuminated. "A" Deck in
NOT fitted until a later stage.
The instructions in Step 6, are for modelers using Fred's superb etchings. For those of you using the cardboard decorations provided by Hachette, further instructions on how to light more of the Bow & Stern will be issued shortly.
This is the point when we deviate from the instructions provided by Hachette. All the "A" Deck cabins need to be built now however, we
will not be fixing them to "A" deck but building them as stand alone cabins as shown on the photographs. The reason for this is so that we
can cut out access holes to "B" Deck through "A" Deck at a later stage where we will be connecting the cabin leds.
Step 7. New Tool Required: Dremel Kit with tool 118.
Holding the relevant etching against the cabin wall, mark through the portholes and windows using a felt tip pen. Remove the etching and mark the wall area that must be removed. Carefully, chain drill the rectangle then grind out the area you want to remove. A simple hole will suffice for the portholes. Photo 6 gives a good example of what a typical cut-out will look like.
Photo 7 & 7A shows a before and after shot.
Photo 8 & 9 shows a before and after shot of the rear cabin. The small rectangular cabin at the top of the assembly has a port hole on each
side. Mark the position of the portholes then drill through the side of the wooden block to form a through hole from one side to the other.
Drill a hole through the roof of the lower cabin in the middle of the upper cabin floor until the hole meets the port hole through hole. This
will allow us to push an led into the upper cabin lighting the portholes on each side.
Photos 11 & 12 show you how to prep up the raised roof sections. Notice how I have ground away the area directly behind the windows. This will allow leds from "B" Deck to illuminate the small windows. Obviously, it would be extremely difficult to light this section with "A" deck already in place which is why "A" Deck must not yet be fitted.
The next stage will finalise the lighting for all the windows on "A" Deck. Hold each etched wall in front of the wooden walls and bulkheads fitted to "A" deck. Marks the position of each window on the wooden walls so that you will know where the wooden walls need to be etched away. If you look at photo 13, you can see where I have etched away the wood then painted the surface black.
You will need to repeat the above procedure for every window. Where you want to black out windows rather than lighting them, follow the advice given by Mark. I decided to black out the sleeping quarters and offices quarters (yet to be fitted but built last week as a loose item).
We need to diffuse the light from the leds which we will be mounting directly behind each window. You can use 90 gram tracing paper or similar however I chose to use my own system using a combination of paper, glue and varnish. Start by cutting your chosen material into appropriately sized pieces then glue each piece to the appropriate window using a small amount of superglue.
I found that the glue altered the consistency of the paper in places giving the window a slightly frosted look wherever the glue made contact with it. Varnishing the inside of each window will hide these glue marks and transform the whole surface of the paper into a lightly frosted surface. Photo 14 shows you how I have applied the paper.
You will also notice that I have glued a thin strip of wood
immediately behind the etched wall. This is to block any light that
may leak between the wall and the deck.
Photo 19 gives you a side view of the windows as they look when lit. Photo 19a shows you how they look unlit.
Next, mount leds (as previously instructed) directly behind each window. You can see where I have mounted them in photo Photo 16 shows The last thing to do
Photo 17 shows the lighting arrangement for the front end of "A" Deck.
You can see where I have etched out the wooden wall behind each group of windows.
Photo 18 shows you what the windows look like from the front when lit.
We need to fit some ventilation to the model in order to get rid of some of the heat generated by over 100 leds. I have decided to make use of the funnels to do this. I simply drilled a 4mm hole on each side of the funnel through all three support frames. In Photo 15, you can see one of the holes on the far side of the uppermost support and all three holes on the nearest side.
The next stage involves preparation for taking lighting to the Bow and stern section.
Obviously, with Decks in place it is quite difficult to run a supply through to either end of the Hull without access. For this reason, I
have opted to remove the cardboard decorations from each end of the decks as shown on photos 21 & 22. You can order back issues to replace
the decorations, use Fred's etchings or skip sections 9 & 10.
Photo 21 shows two pairs of wires coming out from the cut-out slot which will eventually allow light through the front bulk heads.
Each pair is a positive and negative cable connected to the rails we fixed to "A" Deck. You may wish to use a red cable for positive
and black for negative giving a red and black pair through on side. I used blue as I have a meter with which I can identify the polarity.
In photo 23, you can see two large holes, one on each side of the deck identified with a yellow line. These holes are used to take two thin
tin copper wires down onto "B" Deck for our stern supply. Connect one wire to the positive rail, and the other to the negative rail. Run
the cables down through the holes making sure they are isolated from each other and any other led or resistor cables.
In Photo 24, you can see the wires quite clearly and may notice that I have connected a pair of leds to them which protrude through "B" Deck
into the hull. This lights up yet another section of the hull interior. Do the same, remembering to use a resistor in series with the positive
supply to the led anode.
You will also notice a split and damaged Deck. I will be dealing with this problem in due course using off-cuts of Decking I kept from previous
issues. You do keep your off-cuts don't you?
Glue down the the whole length of the boat deck as shown in the instructions. My decks warped where I painted the
underside and had to be held in position whilst the glue dried. The side walls and bridge walls can now be fitted
as shown in the instructions.
Next, place the boat deck cabins in position but don't glue them down yet as this will be done at a later stage.
Mark the position of each cabin by applying masking tape along the edge of the cabin walls. This will define the
boundary within which cut-outs through "A" deck will be made for access to the electrical connections. Leave a
generous margin of at least 5mm between the edges of the masking tape and the cut-out boundaries so that the cabin
walls can be glued down later on.
I recommend that you leave the cut-outs for the raised roof sections until the rest of the boat deck cabins are
permanently fixed at a later stage.
Photo 25 and 26 shows the cut-outs I made on the boat deck for lighting connection access. Be very careful at this stage
since an incorrectly positioned cut-out will ruin the deck.
The cut-outs for the rear glass dome will be completed at a later stage once the main cabins are permanently fixed in
Now we can concentrate on lighting the cabins. Photos 27 & 28 show the led arrangement for the officers quarters, Gymnasium
and rear cabins. Notice on photo 28 that I have painted the area around the vent black. This was achieved by applying
wood glue around the joint between cabin and vent then painting the glue seem black afterwards. This will need to be done on wall
to cabin joints too to prevent light seeping through the joints.
The leds will fit into the pre-drilled holes behind the portholes and this will help to hold the leds in position.
Follow the examples in the photos adjusting the number of leds as required for your model. My model will be a blaze of light and
the number of leds selected reflect that. You may decide to use fewer than I have for a more subdued look.
Photo 29 shows the two leds mounted on the main rails to light the forward glass dome. Position the leds to give the dome an evenly
lit appearance. You can place the cabin in position to judge the effectiveness of the leds and adjust accordingly.
Photo 30 shows the led arrangement for the cabin with the sloped roof.
Latest addition by Alan
Once all of the cabins have been pre-wired with led arrays, connect a positive and negative supply to the led array in the officers quarters/bridge and connect the opposite ends of the cable, to the main conducting rails, through the hole at the forward end of the boat deck. Glue the cabin into position using vinyl glue after testing the lads to confirm that the connections are intact. Remove any wires which you have fitted as a temporary measure to test the lights if they are in your way and re-connect them elsewhere as a temporary measure.
Place the raised roof immediately behind the officers quarters. This will act as a template to enable the next cabin to be accurately positioned. Wire the gymnasium led array to the main rails through the hole in the Boat deck before gluing it into position.
Place masking tape around the raised roof placed into position as instructed above. The purpose of the tape is to form a template around the roof that will be used to help us determine which sections of the Boat deck to remove for lighting. See Photo 31 shows the tape marking the position of the roof outline.
Next, cut out the unwanted section of the boat deck leaving a 5mm margin between the outline of the tape and the hole. Leave a section in the middle of the boat deck intact so that the roof can be glued in place in the middle as well as the outside edges.
Check the roof for light leakage between the brass etched edges and roof timber edges. Seal any leaks using vinyl glue. Once the glue dries fit paper over the windows and varnish it before proceeding. Paint the inside edges of the roof black to complete the procedure.
Glue the roof into position using vinyl glue.
Repeat the above procedure for the raised roof near the stern end of the Boat deck, using the templates provided by hatchette to position the roof accurately. As above, use masking tape to mark the outline of the roof and cut out the unwanted section of boat deck leaving a piece in the middle intact and a 5mm margin between the outline and hole as above. Check the roof for light leakage before fitting it into position on the boat deck using vinyl glue.
The next stage involves removing sections of "C" deck immediately beneath the cargo hatches for cable and lighting access. As above, the holes will be a few millimetres smaller than the hatch footprints. See photo 32 and 33.
In step 9, we ran two pairs of wires through the "B" deck front bulkhead. One pair is a spare set fitted so that failure of a connection when manipulating the wires would not result in total failure of the supply. When moving the cables, one of my connections detached from the conducting rail and boy, was I glad I had a spare pair.
If you have not already done so, detach the power supply wires connected to the rails through the boat deck. Next, drill two holes, one on each side for cable access as shown in photo 34A. Put a tight bend on one end of the cables and feed them through the holes then back out of the windows in the "B" deck front bulkhead.
Connect the positive cable to one of the positive wires and the negative cable to one of the negative wires. Shroud the remaining cables and ease them back through the window holes out of sight. Carefully pull the new cables towards the bow whilst carefully feeding any slack back through the holes. Leave the joints exposed as shown on photo 34a until later.
Drill two holes through the bulk head as shown on photo 34. These holes will be used to loop cables from "B" deck through to the bow area.
Further instructions to follow:-
Chris Thomas noticed an error in the porthole arrangement at the
bow. Here is his message.
I thought I would pass on some information about the porthole configuration on the forecastle 'c' deck.
On the card that Amati has sent the paper templates marked m1 and m2 show 16 portholes to be drilled out this is incorrect.
On the part m1 which is the starboard or right hand side of the ship titanic only had 15 portholes i would suggest that the porthole which is the 8th one in from the left hand side i.e. the second one after the letters m1 is missed out.
On the part m2 which is the port or left hand side of the ship titanic did have 16 but they were slightly different.
If the 3rd porthole from the right is moved so that its right edge is 5 mm from the 2nd porthole then the 9th porthole from the left is removed altogether and replaced exactly where the curve at the top of the 2 on the m2 is then remove the porthole on the right hand side of the m2 and replace it so that it's right side is 5 mm from the next porthole to the right then it should look correct with 16 portholes in the way that made titanic distinguishable from Olympic.
So looking at the paper template remove the 9th and the 11th portholes first then reposition.
This photo shows you how fine the stern should be.
This has caused a bit of confusion as the instructions are not
perfect, and the parts didn't match the instructions.
Jeremy Wilson has sent me the following which show things fairly clearly.
This second photo also shows the anchor chains for the port and stbd anchors. I believe that the bow anchor was a spare anchor, but I'm not absolutely sure.
Portholes - an alternative way of using the Eyelets
Dave Hall wanted to use the Eyelets, but didn't like the look of them as they stand. Here's what he has done.
"I agree that the eyelets don't look to clever,but it seems an awful waste not to use them,so here's what I did with them. I took all the 2mm and 1.5 ones,got a block of wood, drilled the appropriate sized hole and filed the whole lot of them FLAT,my fingers are still numb 4 days later!!.This still left them a bit proud in the 'port hole',so I countersunk all the the holes for a flush fit,mind you,you gotta be careful here,too much and you gotta very bigga hole!! I looked at the hundreds of 1.2 'eyelets' in the bag and thought,"naw,no way!!" So,all I've did here is countersink the holes,and 'walla!!',perfect. It's an awful lot of work,but as I've got about 4 weeks between issues(I subscribe)I've got heaps of time,and it's worth it! Hope this is of some interest to you and all the fellow 'Titanicans' out there who can suffer a bit of PAIN!!"
David has also model a couple of other improvements. Blacking in the windows, using the eyelets for light fittings, etc.
Details of Hatchet's Model Stand
The stand comes flat-packed containing:-
1. A solid wood base (looks to be either dark pine, teak, or similar).
2. Two brass-like metal posts. These are hollow through the center to allow the fixing pins to pass through.
3. Two laser-cut pieces on which the model sits. These are cut from the same ply used for the main structure of the model. Although these can be stained and varnished, I felt that they let the the whole thing down a little. Also, the slots provided in the posts are quite a bit wider than the ply pieces. Without a little corrective work here, I would think the whole thing would be somewhat rickety.
4. And finally, two long metal pins.
The idea is that you measure then drill two holes through the base, then place the posts in position (I glued them in place).
Very carefully drill though the hull support pieces, then when ready, insert the pins from underneath and into the keel of the model.
Considering the cost of building the model, I personally would have been happy to pay quite a bit extra for a more sturdy and elaborate stand, which would have included a metal plaque for the front.
One last thing - The instruction leaflet that came with mine was
written totally in French! but it does contain the necessary photo's
to make sense of assembly.
Correction to the Frames
The frames towards the bow are not the right shape. This PDF file shows the correct shape. If you make replacement frames using this as a guide you get a more accurate hull form. Unfortunately I didn't discover this untilit was far too late to correct my model. Never mind.......
Copyright note. I believe that all these photo's are either free from copyright or have been sent with the owner's permission to publish them. If you own the copyright on any of these pictures and does not wish them to be published please let me know and I'll remove them.